#Unimog u1300 headlight upgrade manual#

Kai did a great job and the repair is still in service today. This was a ton of work spanning many weeks and many, many thousands of dollars of parts and labor. One of the balls was trashed (bottom center).ДЇinal hub assembly ready for installation. This is the used front pinion - not the smooth polish as opposed to the scarring on the rear pinion.Д¬ompleted front hub unit with drive shaft. Insertion of assembly into torque tube nearly complete.ДЄfter that much fun on the rear, the only thing to do is the front.Дisassembly of the front is a much bigger deal due to the steering. Using assembly tool to protect spline ends of unit before inserting into the torque tube. Using feeler guage to measure gear depths.

#Unimog u1300 headlight upgrade manual#

This one is per the specifications and the manual examples. Note the black stripe in the white area, this is the actual contact zone. Worksheet for checking the depth of the pinion gear in the housingД¬hecking the 'gear wipe pattern' with white marking grease. The worn bearing race allowed the wheel to droop cutting path in the housing on right. One of the old wheel gears - note the wear groove in the bearing race. Installing drain plug on torque tube to prevent this from happening again. These are deep and strong.Д¬hecking the unimog manual for information on gear allignment. Note deeply grooved end plate.Дogs on the diff-lock. Note damaged inside housing from wearing gears. Inside the gear housing, more peanut butter. Trying to remove the grease from the parts, it was so thick you had to chip it off.

Looking into differential pumpkin: note scarring on the gear faces.Дirty, damaged parts. The oil had turned to peanut butter, probably from the heat of friction. Kai removes drive shaft from torque tube with pan to catch oilt. Torque tube housing separated from the transmission housing. Separating the axle/torque tube assembly from the transmission. Removing the wheel hub and draining the oil in the hub. The photos below describe the process of changing the gears and detail the intense damage that was present in the rear gear set. And of course, you need new bearings, seals, etc so the actual price was much, much higher. It was a good plan, although the gear sets were viciously expensive ($3K a pair or something obscene like that). Master mechanic Kai Serrano would replace the ring and pinon gears and we would replace them with a higher ratio, thereby giving me additional top end. The plan was to kill 2 birds with one stone. One other issue bothered me and that was the truck's inability to hit 60 mph due to low gearing. The damage was building and eventually, it would have to be replaced. Of course, you could only hear it at low speed due to the tire noise. Eventually, the wear and rust pitting got so bad that the truck would grind as you drove it at low speed. After sitting for extended periods, the rust finally took it's toll. One of the previous owners, of which there were at least 3, 'submarined' the truck and got water in the portal axels and drive line.

My unit was not an ex-military truck, but rather had seen civilian service as an off road cargo hauler (explosives and seismophones for a geophysical exploration company). When I bought my Unimog model 1300L, it had had a hard life. U1300L Axle Rebuilt 2000 U1300L Axle Rebulid Making something good even better Feburary, 2000